Easy Solid Hexagon Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern

Have you wanted to make a wearable crochet piece but feel intimidated?  Then you will want to check out this Solid Hexagon Cardigan Crochet Pattern!  It is made from 2 basic, large hexagons with a little seaming and then ribbing!  It is sure to be one of the easiest wearables that you will ever make!

This cozy cardigan is sure to be a staple piece in your wardrobe this Fall!  You may even want to make a couple cardigans in different colors to have to match any outfit!  There is just something so neat and inspiring about being able to make your own clothes!

Compared to a traditional granny hexagon cardigan pattern, I made this one with a solid hexagon design to make it a little less ‘holey’ so to say.  

This free pattern is made using one of my favorite yarns, I Love This Yarn!  This is a #4 worsted weight yarn that is 100% acrylic but is super soft and holds up very well!  I have made 2 of these crochet cardigans so far, one in a solid color and the other in a fun multi print then I did the ribbing in a solid color.

For the purple cardigan, I also used I Love This Yarn in the colors paint party and grape.  I loved using a fun, multi color yarn for he body of the cardigan and then a solid color ribbing and cuffs.

Design of the Solid Hexagon Cardigan

You will literally make 2 hexagons that are identical to each other and after the 2nd round they are made of just repeat rows.  You will then do a simple top seam of the sleeves on both pieces and then seam down the back to join the 2 pieces.  Then you will add ribbing around the body and the bottom edge of the cardigan.  Add a few more rows to the sleeves and ribbing on them to make the cuffs.  And that is basically all there is to this cardigan pattern!

This hexi cardi is made using mostly basic crochet stitches like chain stitches and double crochet stitches.  The only stitch that might be a bit unfamiliar, especially if you are a beginner crocheter, is the back loop only single crochet but is is very easy to do once you get the hang of it.   This stitch makes the ribbing on the edges of the sweater.

The only other thing that I might recommend doing once you have finished crocheting the sweater is blocking it.  I have made sweaters and never blocked them before but it will help the shoulder seams and the back seam to lay a little flatter and it will also help the ribbing to lay flat if the bottom edges are trying to curl any.  

I did block both of the cardigans that I made and I steam blocked them, you just have to be careful especially if using an acrylic yarn because you don’t want to over steam them.  I just turned my steamer on the lowest setting and lightly steamed them and it worked perfectly!

Easy Solid Hexagon Cardigan Pattern

All crochet terms are US terms.

Skill Level – Easy / Late Beginner

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Things you will need:

• I Love This Yarn shown in Stonewash (#4 worsted yarn, 355 yds per skein): XS/S –  1,050yds /  3 skeins ( M/L – 1,250 yds / 4 skeins, XL/2X –  1,750yds /  5 skeins, 3X/4X –  2,000 yds /  6 skeins)
• I / 5.5 mm Crochet Hook
• Yarn Needle / Tapestry Needle
• Scissors
• Tape Measure

Pattern Notes:

1. Pattern is written with 4 sizes XS/S (M/L, XL/2X, 3X/4X)
2. The pattern is made by crocheting 2 solid hexagons, folding them and stitching them together across the top of the arms and down the back then you add a little ribbing and add a bit more to the sleeves.
3. Model is 5’0’’, wearing a size M/L, with a 41’’ bust. 
4. Final stitch count is given at the end of each round in ( ) 
5. Make sure to obtain the correct gauge before starting pattern
6. I will include other notes throughout the pattern when needed

Sizing Chart:

• XS/S (will fit a 28”-34” Bust)
• M/L (will fit a 36”-42” Bust)
• XL/2X (will fit a 44”-50” Bust)
• 3X-4X (will fit a 52”-58” Bust)

Finished Measurements:

• XS/S – approx.  16’’ across back (arm pit to arm pit) and 18’’ long (shoulder to bottom)
• M/L – approx.  20.5’’ across back (arm pit to arm pit) and 22.5’’ long (shoulder to bottom)
• XL/2X – approx.  25.5’’ across back (arm pit to arm pit) and  27.5’’ long (shoulder to bottom)
• 3X/4X – approx.  29’’ across back (arm pit to arm pit) and  31.5’’ long (shoulder to bottom)

Gauge:

• 12 st x 7 r = 4” in double crochet

Abbreviation:

• SL ST = Slip Stitch
• ST = Stitch(es)
• SP = Space
• CH = Chain
• T = Turn
• MC = Magic Circle / Magic Ring
• SC = Single Crochet
• HDC = Half Double Crochet
• DC = Double Crochet
• TR = Treble Crochet
• BLSC = Back Loop Single Crochet

Go!

Round 1: in mc work * 2 dc, ch 2* repeat * to * 5 more times, sl st into 1st dc 

(6 sides with 2 dc on each side & 6 ch 2 corners)

Round 2: sl st in next st, sl st into ch 2 corner, ch 3 (counts as dc st here and throughout) (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same ch 2 corner, dc in each st across until you reach next corner,  * (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch 2 corner, dc in each st across until next corner* repeat * to * around, sl st into 1st dc (top of ch 3)

(6 dc on each side & 6 ch 2 corners)

Round 3 – 13 ( 16, 20, 23): repeat round 2

*you should increase by 4 dc st on each side every round

Fold the hexagon in half and this is what it should look like

Repeat for the other side of the cardigan.  This is what it should look like once you have made both sides

You can use stitch markers to connect the pieces so you can try it on to see how it fits so far. Just remember that we will add ribbing and add some length to the sleeves.

Seam the Sleeves

Take one side, fold it inside out and stitch it together across the top of the arm.

To do this you will simply sl st through both sides of each st.  I only went through the back loops of each stitch only to help make the seam lay flatter.

Seam the Back

Making sure your pieces are still folded wrong side out and lay them next to each other and begin stitching the 2 pieces together up the back starting at the bottom.  Leave the last 4 dc stitches unattached, this helps to create a little bit of a neckline and the ribbing that we will add from sticking straight up the neckline on the back of the cardigan

You can now turn your cardigan right side out for the rest of the pattern

Ribbing

Attach your yarn at the bottom right side of your cardigan (it will be the left side if you have it laid flat in front of you and are looking at it)  

we will be working around the inside edges of the cardigan and not the bottom edge right now

Row 1: Ch 7 ( 7, 9, 9 ), sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch st down, sl st into next 2 st on cardigan 6 ( 6, 8, 8)

*sl st do NOT count as st

Row 2: t, skip 2 sl st, blsc in each st. 6 ( 6, 8, 8)

Row 3: ch 1, t, blsc in 1st st and each each st down, sl st into next 2 st on cardigan 6 ( 6, 8, 8)

Continue repating rows 2 & 3 around the inside edge of the cardigan until you reach the bottom corner ending on a row 2

Do NOT cut your yarn, we will now turn our piece and work the ribbing around the bottom edge of the cardigan

Ch 11 (11, 13, 13)

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch st from hook and each each st down, sl st into next 2 st 10 ( 10, 12, 12)

Row 2: t, skip 2 sl st, blsc in each st. 10 ( 10, 12, 12)

Row 3: ch 1, t, blsc in 1st st and each each st down, sl st into next 2 st 10 ( 10, 12, 12)

Continue repeating row 2 & 3 around the bottom of the cardigan.  Once all the way around, cut yarn.

Sleeves:

you should have 50 (62, 78, 90) stitches around each sleeve

Attach yarn, I attached mine on the under side of the arm.

Round 1: ch 2 (does NOT count as a st), * dc in 8 (8, 5, 1) st, dc2tog* repeat * to * until last 0 (2, 1, 0) st, dc in last 0 (2, 1, 0) st, sl st into 1st dc 55 (56, 67, 60)

Round 2: ch 2, * dc in 9 (7, 4, 1) st, dc2tog* repeat * to * until last 0 (2, 1, 0) st, dc in last 0 ( 2, 1, 0) st, sl st to join 50 (50, 56, 40)

For size 3X/4X, go ahead to the ribbing part of the sleeve

Sizes XS/S, M/L, XL/2X only

Round 3: ch 2, * dc in 8 (6, 3) st, dc2tog* repeat * to * until last 0 (2, 1) st, dc in last 0 (2, 1) st, sl st to join 45 (44, 45)

Round 4: ch 2, * dc in 7 (5, 2) st, dc2tog* repeat * to * until last 0 (2, 1) st, dc in last 0 (2, 1) st, sl st to join 40 (38, 34)

For size XL/2X, go ahead to the ribbing part of the sleeve

Sizes XS/S & M/L only

Round 5: ch 2, * dc in 6 (4) st, dc2tog* repeat * to * until you reach last 0 (2) st, dc in last 0 (2) st, sl st to join 35 (32)

For size XS/S only

Round 6: ch 2, * dc in 5 st, dc2tog* repeat * to * around, sl st to join (30)

Round 7 – 10: ch 2, dc in each st around, sl st to join (30)

For size M/L Only

Round 6 – 7:  ch 2, dc in each st around, sl st to join (32)

Sleeve Ribbing:

Row 1: Ch 11 (11, 13, 13 ), sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch st down, sl st into next 2 st on cardigan 10 (10, 12, 12)

*sl st do NOT count as st

Row 2: t, skip 2 sl st, blsc in each st. 10 (10, 12, 12)

Row 3: ch 1, t, blsc in 1st st and each each st down, sl st into next 2 st on cardigan 10 (10, 12, 12)

Repeat row 2 & 3 until you work all the way around the bottom of the sleeve.

Once you are all the way around, you will just sl st the 2 edges of ribbing together.

Cut yarn.

Repeat on the other side for the other sleeve.

Weave in all ends.

Block using preffered method of blocking if so desired!