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I’m so excited to share with y’all my very first garment pattern πŸ™‚ Woo-Hoo! I have been wanting to write a garment pattern for a little while, but they have intimidated me because you have to write a pattern to fit many different sizes. I finally took the plunge and designed my ‘Easy-Peasy Raglan Sweater’ and I’m so glad I did!!!

This would be a perfect 1st time sweater. If you have never crocheted a sweater before, this one is perfect! All of my testers have told me that it is an easy pattern to follow. One of my testers even told me that she had never made a sweater before and she loved this pattern.

It is a very basic designed raglan sweater. I aimed for it to be on the shorter side and not an overly long sweater, but you can very easily make it longer to fit your style. It is VERY beginner friendly, but not so simple that more experienced crocheters wouldn’t enjoy making it.

Pattern

  • You can purchase the ad-free, downloadable, printable PDF pattern in my Etsy shop Here   It is a 12 page full PDF. Thank you so much for your support!
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Sizing:

The sizing is as follows XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X)

BUST MEASUREMENTS:

  • XS: 28’’-30’’
  • S: 32’’-34’’
  • M: 36’’-38’’
  • L: 40’’-42’’
  • XL: 44’’46’’
  • 2X: 48’’-50’’

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:

  • XS – Bust 32’’ around. Length 18 ½’’
  • S – Bust 37’’ around. Length 19 ¼’’
  • M – Bust 40’’ around. Length 20’’
  • L – Bust 44’’ around. Length 23 ¼’’
  • XL – Bust 48’’ around. Length 24 ¾’’
  • 2X – Bust 52’’ around. Length 26 ¾’’

Things you will need:

  • 4 ( 5, 5, 6, 7, 8) skeins of Vanna’s Choice Yarn (pictured in Taupe Mist) remember, this is with pattern as written, if making adjustments to length you may need more yarn
  • 5.50mm / I hook
  • 4.50mm / G hook
  • Stitch marker
  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle

Gauge: 12 stitches x 6 rows = 4’’ in double crochet with 5.50mm hook

Abbreviation:

  • ch = chain
  • Sc = single crochet
  • Blsc = back loop single crochet
  • Dec = double crochet 2 stitches together
  • Fdc = Foundation double crochet (find the tutorial here)
  • Dc = double crochet
  • Sl st = slip stitch
  • Sp = space
  • T = turn

Notes:

  • This is a very simple designed raglan sweater. It is worked from the neck down. You will work the body of the sweater first then, attach your yarn and make the sleeves right onto the sweater. No sewing is involved! Even the ribbing is crocheted and attached at the same time.
  • Since this pattern is worked down from the neck, it begins with foundation double crochet. The foundation double crochet is a MUST. You cannot chain a row and then double crochet down it and count it as row 1, it will not stretch enough to go over your head. Find my tutorial for the foundation double crochet ​here
  • This pattern can easily be adjusted for length depending on your height. Simply add additional rows before starting your ribbing. Sleeves can be easily made longer also, just work more rows after last decreases before ribbing.
  • The Model is 5’ 0’’ tall, has a 38” bust and is wearing a size Medium with NO extra rows added
  • I tried my sweater on as I worked on it, to get an idea of how it fits and so you can see how many extra rows you want, if any.
  • Chain 2 spaces at the beginning of each round do NOT count as stitches.
  • It may help to highlight your size throughout the pattern, so to help keep track of the size you are working on.
  • This pattern is worked in the round and is not turned unless noted.
  • I will include other notes throughout the pattern as needed.

GO!

Body of sweater (with 5.50mm hook)

Row 1: fdc 54( 54, 54, 62, 62, 70), sl st into 1st dc. 54 (54, 54, 62, 62, 70) stitches.

Row 2: ch 2, *dc in 20 (20, 20, 23, 23, 25) st, ch 2, dc in 7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 10), ch 2* repeat * to * once more, sl st into 1st st of round 54 (54, 54, 62, 62, 70) st & 4 ch 2 spaces.

Row 3: ch 2, dc in same st and in each st until you reach the 1st ch 2 space, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch 2 space, *dc in each st until next ch 2 space, ( 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch 2 space* repeat * to * all the way around, sl st into 1st st

70( 70, 70, 78, 78, 86)

*note ch 2 stitches in the corners do NOT count as st here and throughout

Row 4: ch 2, dc in same st and in each st until you reach the 1st ch 2 space, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch 2 space, *dc in each st until next ch 2 space, ( 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch 2 space* repeat * to * all the way around ending in last ch 2 space corner, dc in each st until you reach the end of the row, sl st into 1st st 86 (86, 86, 94, 94, 102)

Repeat row 4 until you reach row 7 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) You should have 134 (166, 182, 206, 222, 246) stitches

We will now start to create the arm holes.

Row 8 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14): ch 2, dc in same st and in each at until you reach 1st ch 2 space, *sl st into ch 2 space, ch 5 (5, 5, 7, 7, 8), skip next 27 (35, 39, 44, 48, 54) st, sl st in next ch 2 space*, dc in next st and each st across until you reach next ch 2 space, repeat * to *, dc in next st and in each st until you reach the end of the row, sl st into 1st st. 94 ( 110, 118, 136, 144, 158)

*note: sl st in corners DO count as stitches.

Row 9 (11, 12, 13, 14,15): ch 2, dc in same st and in each st around until you reach the ch stitches, *work 5 (5, 5, 7, 7, 8) dc into the ch st, dc in next st* and in each st across until you reach the other ch stitches, repeat * to *, dc in each st until end of row, sl st in 1st st. 94 ( 110, 118, 136, 144, 158)

*make sure to have dc in the slip stitches, as they DO count as st

Row 10 (12, 13, 14, 15, 16) – Row 26 (28, 29, 32, 34, 36) Ch 2, dc in same st and in each st around, sl st into 1st st 94 ( 110, 118, 136, 144, 158)

Do NOT cut yarn. We will now start to do the ribbing

Switch to 4.50mm hook

RIBBING: Row 1: ch 9 (9, 9, 11, 13, 13), sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch st down, sl st into next 2 st on bottom of sweater 8 (8, 8, 10, 12, 12)

*note sl st do NOT count as st

Row 2: t, skip 2 sl st, blsc in each st 8 (8, 8, 10, 12, 12)

Row 3: ch 1, t, blsc in 1st st and each each st down, sl st into next 2 st on bottom of sweater 8 (8, 8, 10 , 12, 12)

Repeat row 2 & 3 until you work all the way around the bottom of the sweater.

Once you are all the way around, you will just sl st the 2 edges of ribbing together.

Cut yarn, weave in all the ends.

SLEEVES: With 5.50mm hook Attach yarn at bottom corner of underarm

Row 1: ch 2, dc in each st around, you should have 27 (35, 39, 44, 48, 54) st around the arm and 5 (5, 5, 7, 7, 8) under the arm, sl st into 1st st. 32 (40, 44, 51, 55, 62)

*place stitch marker so you can easily keep track of how many rows

Row 2 – row 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6): ch 2, dc in same st and in each st around, sl st into 1st 32 (40, 44, 51, 55, 62)

Row 4 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7): ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 5 (7, 8, 7, 8, 9) st, dec, *dc in next 6 (8, 9, 8, 9,10) st, dec* repeat * to * around, you should have 0 (0, 0,1, 0, 2) st left,

dc in last 0 (0, 0, 1, 0, 2) sl st into 1st st 28 (36, 40, 46, 50, 57)

Row 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8): ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 4 (6, 7, 4, 7, 5) st, dec, *dc in next 5 (7, 8, 5, 8, 6) st, dec* repeat * to * around sl st into 1st st, you should have 0 (0, 0, 4, 0,1) st left, dc in last 0 (0, 0, 4, 0,1) sl st into 1st st. 24 (32, 36, 44, 45, 50)

Row 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9): ch 2, dc in same st and each st around, sl st into 1st st 24 (32, 36, 44, 45, 50)

Row 7 (8, 8, 9, 9, 10): ch 2, dc in same st and in next 3 (5, 6, 8, 6, 7) st, dec, *dc in next 4 (6, 7, 9, 7, 8) st, dec * repeat * to * around, sl st into 1st st. 20 (28, 32, 40, 40, 45)

Sizes XS (S, M,) only:

Row 8 (9, 9): ch 2, dc in same st and each st around, sl st into 1st st 20 (28, 32)

Size L (XL, 2X) only:

Row 10 (10, 11): ch 2, dc in same st, and in next 7 (7, 6) st, dec, *dc in 8 (8, 7) st, dec* repeat * to * around, sl st into 1st st 36 (36, 40)

All Sizes:

Row 9 (10, 10, 11, 11, 12) – Row 16 (17, 17, 20, 20, 20): Ch 2, dc in same st and each st around, sl st into 1st st 20 (28, 32, 36, 36, 40)

Do NOT cut yarn. We will now do the ribbing around the sleeve RIBBING: Switch to 4.50mm hook Row 1: ch 9 (9, 9, 11, 13, 13), sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch st down, sl st into next 2 st on bottom of sleeve 8 (8, 8, 10, 12, 12)

*note sl st do NOT count as st

Row 2: t, skip 2 sl st, blsc in each st 8 (8, 8, 10, 12, 12)

Row 3: ch 1, t, blsc in 1st st and each each st down, sl st into next 2 st on bottom of sleeve 8 (8, 8, 10 , 12, 12)

Repeat row 2 & 3 until you work all the way around the bottom of the sleeve. Once you are all the way around, you will just sl st the 2 edges of ribbing together.

Repeat sleeve for other side.

Cut yarn, weave in all the ends. Around, the neck make sure to sew the bottom of the first and last st together.

I hope that y’all have enjoyed making my ‘Easy Peasy Raglan Sweater’ πŸ™‚ If you liked this pattern, be sure to share, like or pin it!

Happy Crocheting!

Kylee

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7 Comments

  1. All the links, Ravelry, etc went to a teddy bear in the middle of a blanket. Where is the pattern for the sweater?

  2. Thank you for sharing your pattern.
    What size is Vannas Choice yarn? I don’t have any but would like to use a comparable size from my yarn collection.

  3. I also need to know yardage per skein if the recommended yarn. The amount of skeins recommended in the pattern doesn’t help me because the yarn I will use will have different yardage. Thank you

  4. Kylee, many thanks for posting this pattern. I’ve been looking for an easy raglan sweater to crochet. I just finished knitting two sweaters for myself and have enough yarn from both to make your sweater by crocheting them. Thank you again and happying crocheting.

    1. oh, yay!!! I’m so glad that you came across my pattern. You’re so welcome and Happy Crocheting to you too! πŸ™‚